Photographing The Painted Hills
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From Each of the threeunits that comprise the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Sheep Rock, Clarno, and Painted Hills, tell a unique story of Oregon's geologic and climatic past. Although each unit is worth visiting on their own merit and each offer spectacular scenery, of the three, it is the Painted Hills unit that is by far the best known and most photogenic.
Directions.
The Painted Hills unit is located 50 miles east of Prineville on US-26. At the sign for the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, turn left onto Bridge Creek Road (4 miles west of Mitchell). Follow Bridge Creek Road 6 miles to Bear Creek Road and turn left into the National Monument.
Special Notes.
The clay that makes up the colorful formations is soft and easily damaged, so you are required to stay on the designated trails. Collecting of fossils and rocks is strictly forbidden. No fee is required.
Locations.
The pastel reds, yellows, and greens that give the Painted Hills unit its name are the product of fossilized plant matter that was deposited in an ancient lake approximately 500,000 years ago. As the material began to decay and fossilized the magnesium, iron, and manganese began to leach out into the surrounding clay and oxidize, producing the colors we see today. As you follow the road through the monument there are several pull-offs that allow you to get out of your car and scout the area. The first1/2 mile of the road provides several good photo opportunities looking up through the colorful valley to the overlook which is located just 3/4 miles from the monument entrance. Continuing along the road for another 1/4 mile you come to the parking area for the overlook. From here you can either walk the short 1/4 mile trail that follows the ridgeline for some great views looking back down the valley or you can cross the road and hike the steep 3/4 mile Carrol Rim trail. From the rim, several viewpoints provide views of the colorful hills as they fan out below the Ochoco Mountains.
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For a closer view of the formations, follow the road to the right another 1 1/4 mile to the Painted Cove trail. This short 1/4 mile loop takes you around, over, and through a small formation a close-up view of the surface of the hills. You may also find balsamroot of paintbrush growing in the small runoff gullies providing an opportunity to provide scale and offset the colors and texture of the clay.
Located just past the Painted Cove is a small pond surrounded by sagebrush. On a calm morning the soft sunrise light may provide an opportunity to catch reflections of the hills in its waters.
Returning back from the Painted Cove and following the road to the right 1 1/4 miles brings you to Leaf Hill. Here, a short 1/4 mile trail circles a small hill rich in plant fossils. With patience, and a bit of luck, you may find some interesting macro subjects.
Technique and Equipment.
Most of the valleys within the unit run from east to west, so a few hours after sunrise and before sunset, provide the best light to photograph the area. Since you will generally be photographing landscapes, lenses ranging from 17mm to 105mm are most useful. A macro lens may come in handy around the Leaf Hill area for photographing some of the fossilized leaves and shells. A polarizing filter is essential to bring out the colors of the hills and a graduated neutral density filter can be useful once the sun is above the horizon.
Spring and fall are the best times of the year to visit the monument. During the spring you can find balsamroot, paintbrush, and lupine in full bloom, which offer a colorful contrast to the pastel colors of the hills. In the fall, autumn leaves and dry grass complement the color in the hills. During both seasons you are also more likely to encounter a shower making the colors of the monuments hills more vivid.
Where to Stay.
The Bridge Creek Inn at Fossil and the Oregon Hotel in Mitchell are both relatively close by and offer nice clean rooms at reasonable rates. Additional lodging and restaurants can be found in Prineville, John Day, and Dayville. Although camping is not allowed in the National Monument there are several campgrounds nearby. Ochoco Divide is a USFS campground with 26 sites and is located 15 miles west of Mitchell on US-26. It is typically open from April through October. Muleshoe is a 12 site BLM campground along OR-19, 3 miles south of Service Creek and is open year around.
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